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Обслуживание, диагностика и ремонт лодочных моторов.

Прочистка водяных каналов, промывка и ремонт помпы. Переборка редуктора с дефектация и заменой деталей. Замена сальника гребного вала в стоимость не входит.

сервис лодочных моторов johnson

Замена сальника гребного вала и сальника ступицы. У меня 70ка, года, не давно поменял коммутатор Евро в финке стоил и езжу довольный. Все работает, заводиться с первого оборота, хавает й бенз. Наверное еще столько же лет пробегает. Leo Guff15 сен Leo Guff сказал а:. Октябрьское ХМАО - Югра Имя: Болодя23 янв По завершении ремонта вам будет предоставлен подробный отчет о работе с указанием стоимости операций и комплектующих. Диагностика мототехники в Импорт-Сервисе, при условии согласия на ремонт, абсолютно бесплатна. Все наши специалисты имеют необходимую квалификацию. Подробные прайсы на все услуги.

  • Фиксики файер шпуля верта игрек
  • Силиконовая приманка овнер
  • Автоприцепы моторных лодок
  • Приклеить усиление на дно лодки пвх
  • Мы открыто публикуем цены на своем сайте. Мастера любят свою работу. Большинство людей при этих словах представляет громко работающий, часто глохнущий и крайне ненадежный "Вихрь" с ненасытными ю лошадиными силами. Немногие из нас могут представить себе могучий, экономичный и надежный красавец мощностью до л. Удивительно, но именно такую мощность способны развивать некоторые модели американских двигателей "Джонсон". История создания моторов "Джонсон" - это, по сути, и есть история подвесных двигателей вообще. Молодежь начала века просто "болела" всеобщей моторизацией, и братья Джонсон из американского штата Индиана не были исключением. Их первый подвесной двигатель появился в году. Завоевав себе авторитет производством стационарных силовых установок для лодок, катеров и аэропланов, в году они буквально взорвали американский рынок, начав СЕРИЙНЫЙ выпуск нового подвесного 2-сильного мотора. Их работа сопровождалась сильным шумом и вибрацией. Прочие работы по ремонту лодочных моторов. Работы, не вошедшие в перечень выше, рассчитываются исходя из стоимости нормочаса. Стоимость нормочаса — рублей. Таганрог Тайшет Тамбов Тарко-Сале Таруса Таштагол Тверь Темрюк Тимашёвск Тихвин Тобольск Тольятти Томск Торжок Тотьма Троицк Туапсе Туймазы Тула Тулун Тутаев Тында Тюмень. Углич Удомля Узловая Улан-Удэ Ульяновск Урай Урень Усинск Усолье-Сибирское Уссурийск Усть-Илимск Усть-Кут Уфа Ухта Учалы. Хабаровск Ханты-Мансийск Хасавюрт Химки Хотьково. Чайковский Чебоксары Челябинск Череповец Черкесск Черноголовка Чехов Чита Чусовой. Шадринск Шарыпово Шатура Шахты Шебекино Шимановск Шлиссельбург. I must not have ran it dry on the last run, but there was a film still inside. If you do not know any history of the motor, then it may be best to suspect the worst. Do not purchase a can of spray carburetor cleaner, think that you can spray it into the breather while the motor is running and consider the carburetor clean. It may look like a diamond on the outside but like a sewer on the inside. Usually you can tear the carburetor apart, clean it up, blow out as much as you can with compressed air and a simple reassemble with good results. However most of these carburetors have one or more small soft plugs that plug a hole that was drilled in the body to make air or fuel passages.

    I once ran into one motor that apparently had a watery grave, possibly during a flood because inside the carburetor, the main jet and the main jet passage tube were both plugged with a VERY FINE silt. I was able to remove the main jet, drill out the plug using the same size drill as the jet was made originally for. But then after having this carburetor off more times than I wish to remember, it finally hit me that possibly there was a blockage in the main jet tube under this soft plug the only place I could not see thru. I ordered a new soft plug. But with fishing season approaching before it came, I removed the old soft plug by driving an ice pick into it then prying it out. Sure enough, the tube was plugged almost solid as the main jet had been. However in trying to unscrew it, it soon became evident that I would ruin it before it came loose. So I straightened it best I could, blew the tube out with high pressure compressed air. Now I can even see thru it. It ran so well that I never put the new soft plug in. Before this it would have been totally impossible for fuel to get from the float bowl into the motor, that is why it would sputter when I squirted fuel into the choke area. And the previous e-Bay seller said he had just ran it the week before. Now when you try to start the small motor you have to pump the priming bulb for some time to bring fuel from the main tank to the carburetor. In this case, you need to install a anti-siphon check valve in the fuel line at the tank for the small motor. Measure your fuel line so you can buy the right size check valve. Also consider if there may be a slight air leak in the fuel line and the motor has sat for a whole that the fuel may have partially drained back into the tank. One suggestion here is to use a nail or something pushed in holding the ball down, while holding this line end high in the air when pumping, allowing all the air to escape. Then remove the nail, the line should be pretty full. If you are using the old metal OMC tank, the cap is vented by the center screw head having slots cut under the head, or through the fuel outlet on the tank when you connect the line coupler as seen in the photo below. This will automatically vent the tank unless these small notches get plugged.

    When the connector is coupled, these pins are pushed in allowing a small vent hole through a recess below the LH pin. If you are using any of the old style newer or aftermarket plastic tanks, they all require you to unscrew the vent screw slightly. This need not be backed out to the point it may fall off, but just a part of a turn or so. If you do not vent the tank, the fuel pump will suck a vacuum and no more fuel can be pulled into the carburetor. As of all the new plastic aftermarket fuel tanks are required to be automatic venting. These new tanks have a spring loaded automatic vacuum one way venting system in the filler cap. However one of these that I have as a spare on my larger boat where I have all the fuel lines constantly connected to a valved manifold, these new tanks act on vacuum from the motor, but do not take into account for pressure building up inside the tank in hot weather, so that quick connector from the spare tank to my manifold leaks a small amount of fuel when it the weather warms up. The EPA says this fuel venting for the multitude of boaters out there is part of the air contamination problem. Now you may also see another twist to this which is Moeller is currently making a new fuel line assembly with the ends and priming bulb that has a different quick connector at the tank end. It is toted as a cure for pressure build up when you disconnect from the motor where this new IMPROVED unit is supposed to stop any leakage here.

    лодочный мотор джонсон, кто что знает?

    However it replaces the tank connector fitting, so if you have more motors than the one you are going to use this new tank on, you will have change all your tanks over OR buy the old style quick connector and replace the one on this new style tank with the older style connector. Check the fuel connectors to both the motor and the fuel tank. Sometimes they may pop off just enough to disconnect themselves but still be on the guide pin. The worst coupler to do this that I have found are the ones using a torsion spring wound around a central pin, with the tails putting pressure on the latch. Attwood makes a fuel line coupler that uses a coil spring, which is quite a bit more secure than the torsion spring that Tempo uses. Make sure you have the fuel line on correctly, as it can be attached either way, but the check valves in the primer bulb will only work one way. On the bulb itself is an ARROW, indicating which way the fuel needs to flow from the tank to the motor. Push this coupler on as far as it can go AND have the couple lock latch snapped in place. Primer bulbs do not stay firm after an engine starts because fuel is "sucked" through them, not forced through them under pressure. A problem can likely be due to a weak fuel pump or air leaks in the fuel line. Pictured below is a dissected primer bulb. The red check valve assembly is towards the tank. I swapped the red with the black plastic internal valves for better picture clarity. Normally the red will be with the red. In the suction side, red it has a light spring pushing against the valve to prevent fuel from being pushed back into the tank. As mentioned before, when running, the primer bulb will NOT be hard as when you primed the motor. The reason being when pumping the bulb to prime, you are filling the carburetor, when the carburetor float shuts off the in coming fuel, the bulb gets hard because there is no place for the fuel to now go. When the motor is running the primer bulb really needs to be laying horizontal so the fuel passes thru with little restriction. If it is vertical there is more of a chance for the check valves to do some slight blockage. Dissected fuel line primer bulb.

    If fuel starts running out of the carburetor when you pump the bulb, then you possibly have the carburetor float stuck our the needle valve may have dirt under it and may not be shutting off when the float reaches it high position. Also check for any possible fuel leakage at any of the fuel line fittings or at the fuel pump cover. On the older OMC motors up until about or so that used the small fuel pump mounted on the RH side of the powerhead, there will be a large headed metal screw with a coin slot in it on the outside of the fuel pump. This can be loosened and the cover removed, revealing a stainless steel screen. Make sure this screen is not clogged, and that the neoprene gasket is intact and sealing properly. If it is sucking something up into or around the pickup screen the supply can be cut off, when the motor dies, this debris can fall off, the motor may start and run again for a while. It could also be a hairline crack in the 6 gal. If it runs, then dies, try pumping the bulb while it is running and see if it improves if it does then replace the fuel pump. Sometimes it is best to rebuild the carburetor even if it is just the fuel pump. Another thing to look for that is many times overlooked, is the neoprene O-Ring on the inside of the fuel line connectors. Common problem, cheap fix. These O-Rings are inside the connector encompassed in a inner groove right at the outer end of the stainless steel shut-off ball. You will not be able to see how bad they are until you take it out. Ideally a small crochet hook works best, but you can remove it with a SMALL screwdriver or ice pick. The are usually not strictly OMC priority so you can probably pick replacements up a at an automotive store or even a well stocked hardware store, by comparing to the old size that was removed. If you can not find the exact same size, then opt for one that is the same OD but thicker. You may then have to grease this before you try to couple it to the motor or tank. These O-Rings can get nicked or scratched just enough to not seal completely and being under a vacuum, can leak air, therefore not allow fuel to be sucked to the carburetor.

    This is one item that is overlooked many times in tracing down a fuel problem. These are worth replacing because they may seal under pressure when you pump up the bulbbut leak under suction from the fuel pump. Cheap and easy maintenance item, and might solve help you from chasing your tail. The O-Ring on the right is badly chewed up internally.

    vodomotorka.ru

    Check ALL fuel connections for leaks or cracks in the fuel line. I once found one that had a small crack UNDER the clamp, if you put the clamp back on exactly in the right place it would seal, but if it was slightly different location, then there was a vacuum leak on the suction side. Also check the gasket between the fuel pump and the powerhead. If this gasket got misplaced during a fuel pump inspection, you will have metal to metal contact, there will be a vacuum leak so the fuel pump will not function. I suspect it is so to insulate the fuel pump from the heat of the block, thereby prevent vapor lock when the motor warms up. You can easily check the fuel pump operation by removing the hose at the carburetor, pull the starter rope and see if gas comes out the hose while the motor is turning over. As an alternate to the fuel pump, you could also take an empty 1 quart oil bottle, make a fuel line adapter that fits the cap, remove the fuel line from the carburetor and using a short fuel line, connect the bottle of fuel to the carburetor inlet fitting. Hang it above the motor so you have gravity feed which does not need a fuel pump. This will give you some indication if the problem may be in the existing fuel system. I have one of these made up and use it often. The fuel pump is powered by a pulse connection to the upper cylinder on these motors. So it is a totally pneumatic pulse operating the mechanical diaphragm inside the pump, with no wires or push rods involved. If you want a better test, temporarily tee a fuel pressure gage in the pump outlet line and run the motor at various speeds. That will not only test the pump, but detect other problems such as clogged filters, air leaks, etc. Some of these gages are cheap and usually combined with a vacuum gage. Teeing it into the line ahead of the pump will also detect restrictions between there and the tank as a vacuum test. Another method to determine if the fuel pump is bad without the engine running, unscrew the 2 pump screws from the engine and pump the primer bulb. If ANY gas comes out of the little vacuum hole on the back of of the pump, then the diaphragm is ruptured. In this case with a slightly damaged diaphragm, the motor may still operate, but fuel can be sucked into the cylinder through the pulse connection hole on the block and cause the upper cylinder to flood. You can pull the rope until your arm gets tired but it refuses to start.

    Wait an hour and it wills start, only to repeat the process. The spark plugs will always be wet, as the engine is flooded.

    сервис лодочных моторов johnson

    On the motor shown in the photo below, the owner had lack of power problems even after all apparent avenues were covered. Compression was on both cylinders, carburetor was cleaned more than once. Fuel was mixedbut there was an excessive amount of black oil coming from the relief holes. What was found that the fuel pump had a leak in the diaphragm and was also pumping an excessive amount of fuel directly into the crankcase, which settled into the bottom cylinder and was subsequently going out that cylinders exhaust port and then into the exhaust housing of the motor. Fuel pump diaphragm was ruptured. These older OMC small square type fuel pumps are rather cantankerous to repair and make them function afterwards. The reason is that they are so delicate and invariably, you miss getting some of the springs or valves in right. You may notice that in the parts lists, the early ones do not show a repair kit for them. The later kits for this same small size pump will fit, it is just that the early bodies do not have the later style index tabs on them which aids in reassembly instructions in the kit. So you can really use the new kit in the old pumps, you will need to be sure that the diaphragms go back the same as the originals were. To be sure you get the body parts aligned back right, use a felt marking pen to mark across the the side of the pump, identifying which came from where. On these carburetors, there is a neoprene threaded gasket in the carburetor that acts as a seal. A repair kit has a new one, replace it when doing a repair job. If you are not doing a repair kit job and need to get a better seal, then you could smear some HEAVY chassis grease on and around the threads. Now just because you have fuel to carburetor and on into the engine, spark and compression is OK, there is another item in the equation that is important with that being air. One thing also to consider how far are you trying to draw the fuel? This could also lead to hard starting of a cold engine if the fuel line vacuum has bled off. Another thing is to check the fuel. Disconnect fuel line fitting from motor and take it off the fuel line, slosh your gas tank a few times and immediately pump some fuel into a glass container. Does it smell old like varnish? Is there water or trash in the container? If so, dump it and clean the tank good then put in fresh new mix. Also check the screen in your fuel pump. Clean the carburetor again. Then clean out all fuel lines in motor. I had a reader send me his discovery. He was working on an small older OMC motor, but found that the varnished carburetor float was so water logged that it would not function.

    He carefully removed the brass clip from the cork float and Micro waved the float to see if the water would be driven out of the cork.

    сервис лодочных моторов johnson

    He was able to re-attach the brass clip to the cork, and it did the job, getting him going again. Another item to consider has the motor just been rebuilt and this is the first attempt to start it? This in essence totally stops any fuel from getting into the engine. If you are having significant trouble getting it started the first time after a number of years of it sitting, get a 5 dollar spray can of starting fluid to give it 1 or 2 jet sprays into the breather which could help give it a boost and will not damage the motor. If you run the motor on only starting fluid, then you could likely seize a piston as there is no lubricant in this fluid. If you need that, then get a oil Plews can full of mixed fuel and pump fuel in that way. Some were air cooled, but still needed water to cool the exhaust housing, keeping it from burning the paint. The water intake may be located in numerous different locations in the lower unit depending on the manufacturer. This was well known in those days and the mechanics put the motor in a tank WITH THE PROP ON to do a test. Now after 50 years, there seems to be many Do It Yourselfers who are new to outboards and do not understand this system, who put the motor in a small garbage can, but take the prop off so it will not cut the can. This may allow your motor to run, but not for an extensive amount of time because of the now underwater exhaust bubbling in the can, which disrupts any water flow because of a lot of air bubbles up into the pump. If there was an aftermarket water intake attachment, they are now long extinct, so use a large enough barrel, or attach it to the boat and put it in the water for a test. If you can not achieve a high RPM in a barrel, with the prop on this can sometimes be attributed to the engine smoking badly in a barrel which is essentially so much smoke exhaust fumes that the motor in the confined area of a test barrel that the motor is trying to re-breathe the exhaust, which has little oxygen left in it now. To test for this, remove the top cowling motor and see if that helps.


    Купить Ремонт лодочных моторов

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    • Опубликовано: 24.04.2017
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